WHAT TO WEAR IN ANTARCTICA

    Antarctica is only tourist accessible by boat but Antarctica XXI has come up with a new way to travel and explore this Continent by something called a "Fly Cruise". As the name obviously entails, you fly into Antarctica then do the cruise one way. There are 2 ways to do it. You can either board the boat from Ushuaia, Argentina, cruise the Beagle Channel and Drake Passage, with zodiac landings as per itinerary then fly out of Bellinghausen station to Punta Arenas, Chile. This can also be done vice versa. As to whether one is better than the other that would depend on how you see it. As with any expedition, nothing is cut and dry especially in Antarctica, the harshest environment on the Planet and cruising the Southern Ocean, considered as one of the world's deepest, coldest and stormiest ocean. Sailing the Drake Passage for example is a challenge in itself since it is not uncommon for storms to happen here, some reasons being there are no land masses and also due to the Antarctic convergence. Which makes a one way Cruise a way better choice in my opinion. Antarctica is 620 miles from South America which takes at least 2 days to cross by boat, again, weather dependent. In our case, we had to take refuge in Puerto Williams Naval Base to hide from a storm at the Drake Passage and missed another zodiac landing due to safety reasons. Some boats chose to brave the Drake in terrible weather conditions and we got word later on that the crew regretted that decision describing it as "all hell broke loose". Antarctica can also be accessed by boat from New Zealand which is some 1370 miles away adding 2 days to the cruise.

     So what to wear while in Antarctica???


Like every expedition I've participated in (all of which were trekking/ mountain hiking) , the company would provide you with something called a "Gear list". And again, weather and/or terrain dependent, the list changes with any expedition. In Antarctica however, terrain is only an issue during zodiac landings meaning, your feet get some break from wearing those boots that you can't wait to take off. Antarctica XXI provided us with a gear list as well. But my gear list is based on my personal needs as follows:

HEAD

1. HAT : a beanie hat, those kinds that cover your ears would be a bonus. Sun hat can also be helpful as the sun can be very harsh even though it's a cold environment. I did experience some sun burn on my face even with sunscreen. Sun reflected off the snow can do some damage.

2. EYEGLASSES: ski goggles are not needed but can be used if preferred. I used Suncloud polarized glasses. A Julbo glacier glasses would also be a good choice.

3. BALAKLAVA/ EAR MUFFS: I never had to use one because we were lucky to have 32F weather but with windchill factor, this can be helpful. I packed one just in case.

BODY

1. BASELAYER: I've used Patagonia's capilene baselayers in the past which has great moisture wicking properties but have recently favored the merino wool type fabric. Merino wool's awesome properties include moisture wicking, temperature regulation (cools you off when it's hot, warms you up when it's cold) & antimicrobial properties so you can wear it for more than one day and not have to worry much about odor. There are several brands who make these, Ibex, Smartwool, Stoic, Icebreaker. I've used all except Ibex.

2. INSULATOR: either a soft shell, fleece, down jacket or fleece and down together or fleece and soft
shell together or soft shell and down together. Basically, whatever makes you comfortable. In my case, I was wearing Mammut's 750 fill down jacket on top of my baselayer and had a fleece jacket in my pack just in case.

3. OUTERSHELL/LAYER: this has to be windproof and waterproof. Some wore their ski jackets but I prefer the light packable ones made by Arcteryx. I have the Alpha SL Arcteryx which is highly packable and lightweight at 7 ounces. It's made of Goretex and is "guaranteed waterproof/windproof". I'm making a special mention about it's waterproofing and wind proofing  properties because waterproofing has different categories. Some would say 20,000mm waterproof
rating or DWR which means Durable Water Repellent. Basically, if not sure which to choose, anything that says 3D Goretex is one of the best choices. Make sure it's also breathable i.e. "pit zips".
Lots of brands make these kinds of jackets. Arcteryx is on the more expensive side but my jacket has withstood expeditions like Everest Basecamp and Patagonia and numerous mountain hikes in Southern California such as 6 peaks and Mt. Whitney. And it pays for itself with lifetime warranty.


LOWER BODY

1. BASELAYER: same is true with lower body. A capilene or merino wool baselayer is recommended. I used Stoic merino wool baselayer.
2.INSULATOR: this is a personal preference. Some wore baselayer and ski pants which have built in insulation. I carried fleece pants just in case.

3. OUTERSHELL: some used ski pants. I used REI's Mirula mountaineering pants. Highly packable and lightweight. I have used the same pants during a mountaineering school and summit at Mt. Washington in New Hampshire as well as Patagonia.

FEET

1. BOOTS: Antarctica XXI provided us with Bogs waterproof boots which we returned later. Prior to expedition Antarctica XXI asked for my boot size.

2. SOCKS: most of my hiking socks are merino wool for the reasons I mentioned above but ski socks are good choices for this trip. But in my case, I used REI's mountaineering socks for more warmth and cushion.

ACCESSORIES

1. GLOVES : fleece gloves are appropriate. In my case, I used microfiber inner gloves that came with my Burton ski gloves. Ski gloves or in my case, Burton gloves are good to carry just in case the windchill factor drops . These outergloves have to be waterproof and windproof. The Burton gloves I used have pockets on the outside for hand warmers if needed.

If you noticed, I've mentioned merino wool, moisture wicking , packable, lightweight, waterproof, windproof and breathable more than once. These are my preferred gear list in every expedition I have participated in and it also works for Antarctica.

Note: We were required to wear a lifejacket that appears like a tubular vest that inflates automatically when you hit the water. Required especially when riding the Zodiac.

NORTHERN ICELAND (AKUREYRI)

A domestic flight from Reykjavik airport (behind Icelandair Natura Hotel, a good 5 minute drive) took us to this little town of Akureyri where our Northern Lights tour was to be had. It was interesting to note that the guy at the airport's counter only asked for our names and took our word for it without asking for any form of identification. At the airport in Akureyri, you will see a huge map of Northern Iceland with recommended activities in the area. Akureyri is a town of 18,000 population, most of its residents go to college but then come back to settle down. It became a town in 1862. To me the town looks like a Christmas village out of a Thomas Kinkade painting.

Oldest house in town since 1745

                                           Aerial view of Akureyri

SUNDLAUG AKUREYRAR

A thermal pool open to the public. Cost is 500 ISK unless included in hotel stay. Strict rules are followed. A shower is mandatory before and after using the pools. Shower area consists of shower stalls that are next to each other and everyone has to be naked. Very uncomfortable for us who are not used to being naked among strangers. There is a locker available for use. Locker area is a dry area and towels, flip flops and wet bathing suits are not allowed.  A bathing suit spinner is provided for.

Hot tub and snow…perfect combo!

USHUAIA...the End of the World

       Aptly called the End of the World, the Southernmost tip of South America and the gateway to
Antarctica. It's a resort town in Argentina, the Capital of Terra Del Fuego province. Ushuaia is regarded as the southernmost city in the world.
       A very long 48.5 hour journey from Los Angeles, California took us to this beautiful resort town.    Our journey included overnight stays in Houston, TX and Bogota, Colombia. From LAX, we flew to Houston for  3 hours, from Houston to Bogota 4.5 hours. Bogota served as our port of entry to South America.  From Bogota we flew to Buenos Aires for 6.5 hours and ultimately to Ushuaia for 3.5 hours. Flying time and total travel time would vary depending on prices and choice of airlines and layovers. In our case, we flew with United Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas Airlines. My friends and I were in El Carafate and El Chalten back in March of 2016 and back then we had to acquire a tourist visa to Argentina and paid $160 for 10 years of multiple entry.  In recent months,  visa requirements had been lifted and tourists with US passports can enter Argentina without a visa. I chose to carry my visa with me just in case and was never asked to show it to immigration.

En route from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, 3.5 hour flight.

       Arrival in Ushuaia was a convenient process. The airport in fact reminds me of Alaska, El Carafate or even Reykjavik. The architecture rustic and beautiful and transit was well organized. We wanted   to exchange US dollars to Argentinian peso ($1 USD equals 15.30 Argentinian pesos, exchange varies by location, some stores and hotels' exchange rate could be from 13-15) unfortunately for us the country is celebrating their "Sovereignty Holiday" & banks are closed. Credit cards or even US dollars however are widely accepted especially in urban and tourist areas. From the airport we took a taxi for $10 USD about a 20 minute drive to the city center where our hotel Hotel Del Bosque is located. 

Our hotel for one night. $110 double occupancy.  Located up in a hill so can be a challenge for those with physical limitations.

Boats to Antarctica are docked here 

Ramos General, where we had our first real meal. Love the interior's unique rustic decor

Located by the docks and across from the Visitor Center are various tour companies that can arrange for any tour including  trips to Antarctica.

One of the many souvenir shops around town. Outdoor shops can also be found all over town.
  

          Museums can also be found around town for those looking to learn about the town's or country's history. Tours range from guided tours to the National Park, penguin colonies, etc to self guided tours/walks or renting a car to explore Ushuaia and surrounding areas on your own. Commercial vans, coach buses and taxis are also available as options.

            

            Traveling around Argentina is generally not cheap especially when it comes to food and shopping. Food cost would obviously depend on food preferences and budget.  There are fast food places that sell pizza or empanadas for 210 pesos if looking to eat on a budget. Personally as a
meatlover   coming to Argentina is a gastronomic trip since the country is known for its grass fed animals that account for some of the best lamb and steaks that you can't find anywhere else. So naturally I like to pamper myself in moderate to higher end restaurants that serve these delicious 

meals. And besides it's almost a sin to have bad meat with the best dose of Argentinian Malbec.

Appetizer at  Casimiro Bigua restaurant 

An at least 5 hour process ensures one of the best lamb and steak dinners I've ever had.

Total dinner cost $100  USD , lamb and steak and a bottle of Malbec shared by 3 people.  10%  tip is acceptable although depending on what country you're from (15-20% average in the US), tipping is at customer's discretion.

Very happy with our dinner

One of the many gourmet restaurants in town 

Boat dock for Antarctic expeditions 

Located across from the Visitor center, a strip of private tour operators