Tuesday, December 23, 2014

The Land of Fire and Ice (ICELAND)

Took a tour through Icelandair called the "Northern Lights Tour". This included a roundtrip flight from Boston Logan airport to Keflavik and roundtrip domestic flight from Keflavik to Akureyri, in Northern Iceland. Flight from Boston to Reykjavik takes more or less 4.5 hours. Though an international flight, headsets and food area available for purchase on the plane, so plan accordingly.

KEFLAVIK AIRPORT….There is a tourist information booth by the baggage claim. If tour doesn't include a shuttle to Reykjavik, you can get a FlyBus ticket at the FlyBus counter. 2500 ISK (Krona) per adult for a one way ticket  or 4500 ISK roundtrip. Another option is to buy the FlyBus voucher through Icelandair while still in your home country. Driving time from Keflavik airport to Reykjavik is 45 minutes. a WELCOME CARD is available at the tourist desk for discounts around town including free entrances to Geothermal spas around Reykjavik. Good option to save if staying in Iceland for a longer period. The card also covers fees to certain museums. 

FACTS:
The Prime Minister is on the phone book.
PINK ICELAND, a gay, lesbian, transgender organization in Iceland holds yearly "Gay Pride Parade" where even the Mayor dresses as a Drag Queen. Gay marriages are legal and gay couples can show affection even in public areas. Lots of gay couples go to Iceland to get married. 
PINK DECEMBER, winter activities for the gay community like museum visits, shopping, etc. The Prime Minister is also openly gay of which locals only found out through US media. 
People in Iceland leave their things like shopping bags on the side of the road and not get stolen. It's not uncommon for mothers to also leave their kids outside a coffee shop to get coffee. Scary but true. 
CURRENCY: Krona  $1 USD equals 115.03 ISK (as of 04/2013). Keflavik airport exchange counter is one of the few (if not the only one) exchange counters with NO COMMISSION. At the airport store, exchange is 118.34 ISK.
The country is wired for internet. Even the local buses have free internet. At Natura Hotel (where I stayed at) wifi cost 900 ISK/24 hours. A SIM card is available for 2000 ISK.
Iceland has NO MILITARY but is a NATO member. The country relies on over 1000 SAR volunteers called ICE-SAR (Search and Rescue). Iceland has limited Coast Guard boats and helicopters, so any adventurer local or tourist alike is encouraged to leave itinerary/whereabouts at a SAR center in case of emergency.
If you come across a local or tourist having car trouble, never attempt to rescue. Call ICE-SAR instead. Any damage caused on the vehicle will be the responsibility of the rescuer. 

NOTES:
If flying through Icelandair to other parts of Europe i.e. Paris, an option for a layover in Reykjavik for up to 7 days is available at no extra charge. Iceland's way of promoting tourism in the country. Most tourists on a long layover would opt to go to the Blue Lagoon to soak in its wonderful mineral waters. A bus is available from the airport to the Blue Lagoon and back. 
Flying over Reykjavik from Akureyri



POINTS OF INTEREST: REYKJAVIK

HARPA…Home to Iceland's symphony orchestra with a beautiful architecture. Height is 141 ft and a has a floor area of 300,000 sq. ft. Consists of a steel framework with geometric shaped glass panels of different colors. Construction took about 4 years to complete at a cost of 164 million Euros. 

ICELANDIC PHALLOLOGICAL MUSEUM
A museum that contains a collection of penises that belong to the Animal kingdom including a human penis.




It contains a collection of more than 200 penises and penile parts belonging to almost all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland.
Entrance fee: 1000 ISK per person (as of 04/13). Children under 13 years free with the company of their parents. 

HALLGRIM'S CHURCH (HALLGRIMSKIRKJA CHURCH)
The largest Church in the country. Its tower arises to a 
magnificent 74.5 m (245 ft). It houses the largest organ in
Inside the Church showing the organ
Iceland, it stands 15 m (approximately 50 ft) and weighs about 25 tons.  For those musicians out there, you might be interested to know that the organ is driven by 4 manuals and a pedal, with 102 ranks, 72 stops and 5275 pipes. The church is a significant reference point in Reykjavik among visitors. For a small fee, you can take the elevator to an observation tower which affords picturesque views of the country's capital. In front of the Church, you will find the grand statue of Leifur Eiriksson, the first European to discover America. He was said to have landed on the shores of America before Christopher Columbus.

Ticket to the Observation tower




Statue of Leifur Eiriksson



View of Reykjavik from the Observation tower

THE GOLDEN CIRCLE
Another option to see Reykjavik on a limited time is a tour around the famous Golden Circle which includes the KERIO VOLCANO CRATER, GULLFOSS WATERFALL (a waterfall shaped like a pizza slice), GEYSIR and THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK. There are bus tours available which can take all day. Some buses don't stop at Kerio volcano crater due to extra charges (it's privately owned). Another option is renting a car usually a jeep with huge tires to tackle Iceland's snowy roads especially in winter months. Lucky for me and my companions, I have a friend who lives in
Reykjavik who took us on a private tour of the Golden Circle with her husband. They also took us on a picnic at Thingvellir National Park and let us have a taste of local Icelandic cuisine. Food like smoked whale, smoked salmon, pickled herring (pink color due to beet roots), "ugly cheese", mold cheese, dried fish (eat with butter).
Kerio Volcano crater

                                                       



                        
Geysir

Gullfoss Waterfall
                                   


Picnic at Thingvellir National Park (tectonic plates can be seen in the park)



THE BLUE LAGOON
Ask your hotel for a FlyBus to the Blue Lagoon. A cab can cost up to 16,000 ISK ($140) one way. A FlyBus can take you to the Blue Lagoon, then to the airport at a cost of 8000 ISK including entrance fee to the lagoon ($70). Van or bus leaves hotel by the hour. It takes 45 minutes from Reykjavik to the lagoon then 20 minutes from the lagoon to the airport. So plan your visit accordingly so as not to miss your flight. There is a luggage storage at the Blue Lagoon. Arm bands with microchips are worn. These armbands are attached to your credit card for charges like towels (800 ISK) or robes (1600 ISK) and bar drinks at the lagoon.









FOOD AND SHOPPINGFood is generally not inexpensive. A light lunch at Cafe Paris which consisted of soup, halibut with potatoes and cheese underneath with a side of salad cost $17. A bottle of beer $8.50, on tap $8.30, soda $3.50 and coffee $4.50. Food was great at this place. Had dinner at Geysir Bistro and bar in downtown located in the same building as the Tourist information center. Myfriend Marvi (a local) took us to her fave cafe called TEN MORE DROPS. A very charming cafe with a vintage feel to it. "Ten more drops" is famous Icelandic phrase or expression when they ask for a refill or more drinks. Iceland is famous for its wool and a good wool sweater can cost $150 and up. Souvenir T shirts $25 and up. There is a coop sweater store where you can buy wool sweaters at a cheaper price.
A bargain sweater store. Still expensive at $50 and up



A street mural
ORR, a unique jewelry store designed by famous designers from Denmark
                                      Ten More Drops cafe










Monday, December 22, 2014

Land of the Thunder Dragon and Gross National Happiness (3 days in Bhutan)

 A 45 minute flight over the Himalayan range from Kathmandu takes you to Bhutan. I had just completed a 12 day trek through the Himalayas to Mt. Everest Basecamp and decided to not let this chance to visit a country on my bucketlist pass by. Entry to Bhutan requires a visa and tours are done through a travel agency. I hired a company called Druk Asia and they took care of my visa, itinerary and accommodations. I even had my own private driver and a guide which made this visit more personal. I took my own pace, we detoured if we had to, I didn't have to wait around for other tourists and I was able to ask questions and get answers readily with my personal guide.

The 2 men who made my short trip a comfortable and memorable one.
 Jimmy (my right, driver) and Lhawang (my left, guide)

National Archery championship in Thimphu
We wasted no time and started the tours as soon as I arrived at Paro Airport. I was met by my driver Jimmy and guide Lhawang. From Paro, we drove more than an hour to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. At this point, my itinerary was changed. We stopped to watch a National Archery championship that happens only once a year. Archery is Bhutan's national sport and it was represented at the Summer Olympics. Next stop, the Centenary Farmer's market where most of the people of Thimphu gather for the weekend market. Villagers from nearby valleys come here to sell a wide array of agricultural products. Meat and other items such as incense can also be bought here.

TASHICHHODZONG (Thimphu Dzong) also known as the "fortress of the glorious religion". This houses the ministries, the King's office which he uses daily during office hours and the central monk body. Inside is a temple where the new King's inauguration is held.



Local products at Centenary Farmers Market

Incense

A Tibetan refugee. Tibetans have settled themselves in Bhutan and are hugely engaged in small businesses.


At night, I got a taste of Bhutan's nightlife. My guide took me to the "Western" bar and club. Literally, like those of western clubs/bars. Rock bands, club goers dressed in western garb can be seen. You can even witness "smoking" here. Smoking is prohibited in Bhutan and anyone caught smoking can be facing huge fines or even imprisonment. Higher liability is placed on establishments who are caught selling cigarettes. Tourists who are caught bringing cigarettes to Bhutan have to pay 200% tax. Didn't linger much in the western club, this is not new to me. Then we went to a local Bhutanese dance club. Club goers dress in traditional Bhutanese clothing known as GHO for men and KIRA for women. Bhutanese people also wear these during work hours then change to pants or T shirts if they choose to after work hours. Inside the club, women write the songs they want the DJ to play and they go up the stage and start dancing. It's either solo or group dancing. Most of the time, men just sit on benches as part of the audience. Sometimes, men go up to sing. As I was watching this , I couldn't help but admire the women's sense of confidence dancing on the stage in front of an audience and at how the audience was so receptive and respectful of the performance that is going on. For me, this is what FUN is about! Very clean, very innocent, proof that being inside a club doesn't always mean smoking and alcohol.

At a local Bhutanese dance club in Thimphu

Thimphu Dzong

Thimphu Dzong seen from Buddha point

108 Stupas at Dochula Pass
 A drive to Dochula Pass at 3,050 m. (10,006 ft) was another highlight of my trip. The 108 stupas are offered as a tribute to his majesty the King for his selfless service. They also represent loyalty and the love that blesses the people of Bhutan. These stupas were built by her Majesty the Queen Mother Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck to also commemorate victory over the Indian militants who tried to invade Bhutan and also as a sign of forgiveness to liberate the souls of those who lost their lives.








Buddha Point, located in Kuensel Phodrang
Road constructions/repairs made a huge impact on my itinerary and had to cancel our trip to Punakha. It was disappointing but also served as an excuse to revisit at a later time. On our way to Paro, we stopped by a suspension bridge that connects 2 traditional Bhutanese buildings. Not for the faint of heart, the bridge is held only by chain links invented by a monk years ago. The building has stairs to climb up to a viewpoint to afford awesome views of the surrounding mountains and the very clear river below. Inside the building walls are Buddha paintings.
The 169 ft. bronze statue of Buddha Dordenma, Vajra Throne Buddha symbolizing indestructibility. 

Soccer, another popular sport in Bhutan
Takin, Bhutan's national animal at the Takin Enclosure
Thimphu Valley seen from Buddha Point


A drive up the hill to the Takin enclosure to see Bhutan's endangered national animal is also worthwhile. Going up to the Buddha point offers great views of Thimphu valley below.
Even modern buildings in Bhutan are required to include traditional Bhutanese architecture which includes hand painting.  Contractors can be fined huge amounts if this requirement is not followed.



Suspension bridge
Bridge to Paro Dzong
When you think of Bhutan, you think of this temple perched on the side of the mountain. In fact, photos of this temple grace travel magazine covers, travel ads and even airline magazines and represent Bhutan for the most part. This is the TIGER's NEST located in Paro.







TAKTSANG MONASTERY or TIGER's NEST

















My guide Lhawang spinning the Prayer wheel
Optional horseback ride
View from the tea hut
It requires a climb to at least 3000 ft. from Paro Valley which is already an elevation of about 7200 ft. Therefore, visiting the temple requires a certain degree of physical fitness. I visited when it was a sunny 82 degrees which made it even more challenging. An optional horseback ride to the last stop before the temple's stairs is available for a certain fee. A climb to hundreds of stairs is however needed if wanting to visit and go inside the temple. The first stop takes you to a tea hut where free coffee or tea and cookies are served. This is also where lunch is served if included in your itinerary. Tourists with everage level of fitness take about 6-7 hours on foot. So plan to be on this tour for a good whole day. My guide and I finished in 4 hours which gave us the luxury to visit Paro Dzong (DRUKGYAL DZONG), fortress built to protect Bhutan from Tibetan invaders. This fortress also commemorates the victory of Bhutan over these invaders. Built in 1647 by Shabdung Ngawang Namgyal, father and unifier of medieval Bhutan.
Paro Dzong

View of Paro Valley from the Dzong


Little monks inside the Dzong temple

A "not so happy monk". Each family picks a child to send to the monastery to become a monk. Having one in the family brings a lot of pride to the family. Monks are sent to the monastery at an age where they can already take care of themselves, usually around 6 or 7.



A long day calls for some spa indulgence. A local Bhutanese Hot Stone Bath (using natural rock minerals) is worth the try.

Hot stone bath at Metta Resort and Spa
Metta Resort and Spa. Hot stone bath cost $15


FACTS:
Population: 675,000
Time zone: GMT +6
Curremcy: Ngultrum (Nu) 1 Nu equals $60 USD (as of 10/2014)
Languages: Dzongkah, English
Form of Government: Democracy. Monarchy until 2008. King has the discretion to distribute land to those villagers who don't have any for livelihood. The King also helps make decisions if needed. The 5th King (current) wanted to introduce Democracy to Bhutan. Graduated in Oxford, England with a degree in Economics/ Political Science. The 4th King introduced "Gross National Happiness".
Aside from New Year, National Event day celebrated every December 17 and other various Religious holidays, the King's birthday June 22 is also a national holiday.

The King and Queen's humble home steps away from the Thimphu Dzong where he holds office.

The King and Queen of Bhutan.  His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and Queen Jetsun Pema.  The King(at only 34 years old)  is known to engage in a lot of local sports like archery, soccer and activities like hiking in the mountains and cycling. He lives in a humble home with the queen a few feet away from his office in Thimphu Dzong and drives the same car.  Not one to live an extravagant life, he is also known to stop and chat with tourists he meets along the way.  He can be seen playing a soccer league at a local stadium in Thimphu on Friday nights.


A local textile factory
A high quality textile. One piece costs about $2000.  Locals spend money on expensive fabric for special occasions.
NOTES:
Voted "Happiest country in Asia by Business Week in 2006
Bhutanese people only use FIRST NAMES. This prevents discrimination and the Caste system.
HAPPINESS INDEX: Government officials visit households every year (no specific date) to check on people's degree of "Happiness". Citizens fill out questionnaires.
Paper making using a local tree
Real flowers and leaves are used.