Monday, December 22, 2014

Land of the Thunder Dragon and Gross National Happiness (3 days in Bhutan)

 A 45 minute flight over the Himalayan range from Kathmandu takes you to Bhutan. I had just completed a 12 day trek through the Himalayas to Mt. Everest Basecamp and decided to not let this chance to visit a country on my bucketlist pass by. Entry to Bhutan requires a visa and tours are done through a travel agency. I hired a company called Druk Asia and they took care of my visa, itinerary and accommodations. I even had my own private driver and a guide which made this visit more personal. I took my own pace, we detoured if we had to, I didn't have to wait around for other tourists and I was able to ask questions and get answers readily with my personal guide.

The 2 men who made my short trip a comfortable and memorable one.
 Jimmy (my right, driver) and Lhawang (my left, guide)

National Archery championship in Thimphu
We wasted no time and started the tours as soon as I arrived at Paro Airport. I was met by my driver Jimmy and guide Lhawang. From Paro, we drove more than an hour to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. At this point, my itinerary was changed. We stopped to watch a National Archery championship that happens only once a year. Archery is Bhutan's national sport and it was represented at the Summer Olympics. Next stop, the Centenary Farmer's market where most of the people of Thimphu gather for the weekend market. Villagers from nearby valleys come here to sell a wide array of agricultural products. Meat and other items such as incense can also be bought here.

TASHICHHODZONG (Thimphu Dzong) also known as the "fortress of the glorious religion". This houses the ministries, the King's office which he uses daily during office hours and the central monk body. Inside is a temple where the new King's inauguration is held.



Local products at Centenary Farmers Market

Incense

A Tibetan refugee. Tibetans have settled themselves in Bhutan and are hugely engaged in small businesses.


At night, I got a taste of Bhutan's nightlife. My guide took me to the "Western" bar and club. Literally, like those of western clubs/bars. Rock bands, club goers dressed in western garb can be seen. You can even witness "smoking" here. Smoking is prohibited in Bhutan and anyone caught smoking can be facing huge fines or even imprisonment. Higher liability is placed on establishments who are caught selling cigarettes. Tourists who are caught bringing cigarettes to Bhutan have to pay 200% tax. Didn't linger much in the western club, this is not new to me. Then we went to a local Bhutanese dance club. Club goers dress in traditional Bhutanese clothing known as GHO for men and KIRA for women. Bhutanese people also wear these during work hours then change to pants or T shirts if they choose to after work hours. Inside the club, women write the songs they want the DJ to play and they go up the stage and start dancing. It's either solo or group dancing. Most of the time, men just sit on benches as part of the audience. Sometimes, men go up to sing. As I was watching this , I couldn't help but admire the women's sense of confidence dancing on the stage in front of an audience and at how the audience was so receptive and respectful of the performance that is going on. For me, this is what FUN is about! Very clean, very innocent, proof that being inside a club doesn't always mean smoking and alcohol.

At a local Bhutanese dance club in Thimphu

Thimphu Dzong

Thimphu Dzong seen from Buddha point

108 Stupas at Dochula Pass
 A drive to Dochula Pass at 3,050 m. (10,006 ft) was another highlight of my trip. The 108 stupas are offered as a tribute to his majesty the King for his selfless service. They also represent loyalty and the love that blesses the people of Bhutan. These stupas were built by her Majesty the Queen Mother Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck to also commemorate victory over the Indian militants who tried to invade Bhutan and also as a sign of forgiveness to liberate the souls of those who lost their lives.








Buddha Point, located in Kuensel Phodrang
Road constructions/repairs made a huge impact on my itinerary and had to cancel our trip to Punakha. It was disappointing but also served as an excuse to revisit at a later time. On our way to Paro, we stopped by a suspension bridge that connects 2 traditional Bhutanese buildings. Not for the faint of heart, the bridge is held only by chain links invented by a monk years ago. The building has stairs to climb up to a viewpoint to afford awesome views of the surrounding mountains and the very clear river below. Inside the building walls are Buddha paintings.
The 169 ft. bronze statue of Buddha Dordenma, Vajra Throne Buddha symbolizing indestructibility. 

Soccer, another popular sport in Bhutan
Takin, Bhutan's national animal at the Takin Enclosure
Thimphu Valley seen from Buddha Point


A drive up the hill to the Takin enclosure to see Bhutan's endangered national animal is also worthwhile. Going up to the Buddha point offers great views of Thimphu valley below.
Even modern buildings in Bhutan are required to include traditional Bhutanese architecture which includes hand painting.  Contractors can be fined huge amounts if this requirement is not followed.



Suspension bridge
Bridge to Paro Dzong
When you think of Bhutan, you think of this temple perched on the side of the mountain. In fact, photos of this temple grace travel magazine covers, travel ads and even airline magazines and represent Bhutan for the most part. This is the TIGER's NEST located in Paro.







TAKTSANG MONASTERY or TIGER's NEST

















My guide Lhawang spinning the Prayer wheel
Optional horseback ride
View from the tea hut
It requires a climb to at least 3000 ft. from Paro Valley which is already an elevation of about 7200 ft. Therefore, visiting the temple requires a certain degree of physical fitness. I visited when it was a sunny 82 degrees which made it even more challenging. An optional horseback ride to the last stop before the temple's stairs is available for a certain fee. A climb to hundreds of stairs is however needed if wanting to visit and go inside the temple. The first stop takes you to a tea hut where free coffee or tea and cookies are served. This is also where lunch is served if included in your itinerary. Tourists with everage level of fitness take about 6-7 hours on foot. So plan to be on this tour for a good whole day. My guide and I finished in 4 hours which gave us the luxury to visit Paro Dzong (DRUKGYAL DZONG), fortress built to protect Bhutan from Tibetan invaders. This fortress also commemorates the victory of Bhutan over these invaders. Built in 1647 by Shabdung Ngawang Namgyal, father and unifier of medieval Bhutan.
Paro Dzong

View of Paro Valley from the Dzong


Little monks inside the Dzong temple

A "not so happy monk". Each family picks a child to send to the monastery to become a monk. Having one in the family brings a lot of pride to the family. Monks are sent to the monastery at an age where they can already take care of themselves, usually around 6 or 7.



A long day calls for some spa indulgence. A local Bhutanese Hot Stone Bath (using natural rock minerals) is worth the try.

Hot stone bath at Metta Resort and Spa
Metta Resort and Spa. Hot stone bath cost $15


FACTS:
Population: 675,000
Time zone: GMT +6
Curremcy: Ngultrum (Nu) 1 Nu equals $60 USD (as of 10/2014)
Languages: Dzongkah, English
Form of Government: Democracy. Monarchy until 2008. King has the discretion to distribute land to those villagers who don't have any for livelihood. The King also helps make decisions if needed. The 5th King (current) wanted to introduce Democracy to Bhutan. Graduated in Oxford, England with a degree in Economics/ Political Science. The 4th King introduced "Gross National Happiness".
Aside from New Year, National Event day celebrated every December 17 and other various Religious holidays, the King's birthday June 22 is also a national holiday.

The King and Queen's humble home steps away from the Thimphu Dzong where he holds office.

The King and Queen of Bhutan.  His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and Queen Jetsun Pema.  The King(at only 34 years old)  is known to engage in a lot of local sports like archery, soccer and activities like hiking in the mountains and cycling. He lives in a humble home with the queen a few feet away from his office in Thimphu Dzong and drives the same car.  Not one to live an extravagant life, he is also known to stop and chat with tourists he meets along the way.  He can be seen playing a soccer league at a local stadium in Thimphu on Friday nights.


A local textile factory
A high quality textile. One piece costs about $2000.  Locals spend money on expensive fabric for special occasions.
NOTES:
Voted "Happiest country in Asia by Business Week in 2006
Bhutanese people only use FIRST NAMES. This prevents discrimination and the Caste system.
HAPPINESS INDEX: Government officials visit households every year (no specific date) to check on people's degree of "Happiness". Citizens fill out questionnaires.
Paper making using a local tree
Real flowers and leaves are used.


























1 comment:

  1. Looking to travel to Bhutan for a few days? Here's a few ideas. Enjoy!

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