Wanderlust and Trails: CUBA....Frozen in Time

Due to US travel restrictions to Cuba, visiting Cuba from the US as a tourist is illegal. However there are other reasons to travel to Cuba that are allowed and they fall into certain categories some of which are journalistic activities, professional research or meetings, support for the Cuban people, humanitarian projects, educational exchanges (people to people) just to name a few. For our trip we participated in a multisport tour with KBCuba tours with the purpose of helping the Cuban people and "people to people encounter" although we were forewarned that organizing activities in Cuba can be a challenge and is not always as smooth as one would hope. We flew with Alaska airlines, a 4.5 hour direct flight from LAX to Havana. The airline sent us a form, Cuba Travel Affidavit, that we needed to fill out, sign and present together with our boarding pass when boarding. We also had to purchase a Cuban visa at the airport for $100 each (we met a couple from Chicago who paid $50 each from Chicago O'Hare and a solo traveler from New York who paid $20 flying out of the Grand Cayman Islands). A Cuban visa is required before arriving in Cuba. Arrival in Havana was very exciting, also as expected, not very organized. We had to wait on the airplane since the staircase was being used by another airline which the flight attendant jokingly said "get used to it". Minutes later, an announcement came that said "this is our 7th flight to Havana and everyday is different. Now we have to disembark from the back of the plane". We were picked up by someone named Lazaro at the airport who drove us to our Airbnb host's apartment an approximately half hour drive and paid 20 CUC. It's interesting to note at how patient the cab driver was who waited for minutes while our
Airbnb host gave us an orientation of his place and went to exchange our currency to be able to pay
him. In Havana, there are lots of independent cars for hire and it's not unusual to see locals hail an unmarked car that accommodates more than one passenger. Our host told us the guy who picked us up is cheaper because "his car is old".

CURRENCY
In regular currency exchange, 1 US dollar is equivalent to 24-25 Cuban pesos. I mentioned "regular" because in Cuba, both locals (in certain cases) and especially non locals use a different currency called "Cuban Convertible Currency" or CUC. Meaning, 1 USD is equal to either 82 or 92 cents, higher value if exchanging from the "black market". There's usually a long wait at the bank for exchanging currency and for reasons I don't know, there's an extra 10% charge for USD. No extra charge in the black market.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Just like any other destinations, the cost of food depends on where and what you eat.

EL BIKI A fine dining restaurant that was recommended by our Airbnb host. White table linens, nice ambiance, I would assume quite popular in town. There's a long line outside the restaurant for those who didn't have reservations. I didn't mind the fact that I enjoyed watching these 50's cars zoom by but didn't help the fact that I was hungry. Had my first Cuban mojito that was very strong in alcohol content. Dinner cost 30.14 convertibles. 2 main courses of grilled tuna and a separate order of vianda fritas or fried sweet potatoes and 2 mojitos. Service charge is 10% already added to the bill. Tipping of course is at one's discretion. With the CUC, your meal can be expensive if you choose to dine in fine dining restaurants. The next morning for breakfast, 2 cups of coffee and cafe con leche, a fruit tart and a cake, cost us 3.50 CUC at a local bakery next to our Airbnb apartment.

ME GUSTO other local host recommended this place as a favorite among locals four blocks from our apartment in central Havana on Zanja road. The daiquiri and food were great. Lunch for 2 cost us 16CUC. We've been coming here for dinner as well. A very decent meal costs 2.50-3.50 and pizza starts at 3.70. So our dinners have cost us between 8-10CUC with water or a mojito or daiquiri.Across the street is a place called La Juliana which was also recommended by our local host but was always packed so we ended up not going there.

EL FLORIDITA A very busy touristy place for daiquiris and live music. This bar/restaurant fronts the famous Obispo St. A glass of daiquiri costs 6CUC, smaller size glass and double the price as expected. Ernest Hemingway was known to come here for daiquiris and/or rum, in fact, a statue of
him graces the corner of the bar looking like he's gesturing to order a drink. To note, a framed photo
of him and Fidel Castro can also be seen on one wall.

OMBUS MUNDUS A hotel on Obispo St. where Ernest Hemingway was known to stay at when in
in Cuba and room 511 on the 4th floor where he used to stay at is open to tourists for a fee. The rooftop bar/restaurant is a good place to get pinacoladas, mojitos, daiquiris, Cristal cervezas, etc
with the bonus view of the Havana Bay. Expect to pay "tourist" prices.

CAFE LAMPARILLA Located at the Plaza Vieja or Old Town, a good place for outdoor dining.
Narrow cobblestone St. with live music and park like setting accentuates its old world atmosphere.
There are lots of indoor and outdoor restaurants on Obispo st., Plaza de Armaz and Plaza Vieja.
Plaza Vieja is known for its cerveza served in a long cylindrical table top beer dispenser. If you're adventurous enough and would like to eat "local" on a budget, there are decent take out or dine in local restaurants where meals cost 2-5 CUC. A full meal of grilled pork with plantain and rice and beans cost 2.95 CUC at a restaurant a few steps from our apartment or local "habitaciones". Pinacoladas at this place cost 1.60 CUC which normally cost 6 CUC at most higher end restaurants.

POINTS OF INTEREST

MALECON Waterfront Street/boardwalk of Havana. A visual treat for classical and Art Deco architecture and car show of gorgeous old cars, literally. This is also where locals hang out just to get away from the busy streets of town and especially at night. Old and new restaurants and hotels line the highway. We bumped into a local who was happy to show us around in a demeanor that shows that Cuban pride. It's good to note that several times did cars with locals stop, honk and wave at usIbelieve they are delighted to see travelers exploring their city. There are random local bystanders that act as local guide like Jorge who took us to vegetable and fruit markets, one where non locals can buy and the other one where only locals can purchase on a ration basis called BODEGAS. Eachkfamily has a book where they write the food purchased and date it when it was purchased. There is a limit to what and how much they can buy each month. Then he took us to a building that once housed affluent families that showed in the structure's intricate design and architecture. He claimed that Naomi Campbell and Beyonce visited this place too when they came to Havana. We gave him a tip for this short walk.

OBISPO STREET A strip of restaurants and shops/bookstores within walking distance from the Capitol, the Grand Theater and the tobacco/cigar factory. El Floridita fronts the strip. The entire strip is very crowded as tourists flock here especially when shopping for souvenirs at Patio de Los Artesanos. Local vendors also line the streets and I had a taste of the tasteful Cuban churros. Almost every restaurant offers live music here. Cubanos really do know how to party.

CAPITOL AND GRAN TEATRO de la HABANA Both are architectural visual treats. Renovations still underway for the Capitol. Across the street is the Gran Teatro where performances like ballet are held. Across from the theater is the Parque Central/ Jose Marti, just one of the many parks that can be seen in and around Havana. Here, are lots of local tour operators who offer tours within the city be it through a horse carriage or beautiful vintage cars that Havana is known for.

INGLATERA HOTEL The famous show TROPICANA is held here. Reservations recommended.

PLAZA VIEJA Old town Havana. Shops, restaurants and bars grace this part of Havana.

PLAZA de ARMAZ If antiques are what interest you, this is a good place for that. Old books
and memorabilia from Cuba's revolution and Ernest Hemingway's work can be purchased here. Old newspapers and Cuban stamps for those avid collectors are also sold here. One area of the Plaza has wooden floors, the only one in Cuba.

MUSEUM of the REVOLUTION Entrance fee 2CUC per person. A display of the history of
Cuba's revolutions, the famous one led and won by Fidel Castro along with the significant revolution members Che Guevarra, Cinfuegos, Celia Sanchez, Jose Marti, to name a few. This revolution ousted a dictatorship/tyranny under Batista. A very interesting collection of revolution vehicles, boats, planes
and tankers used during the revolution can also be seen here. Granma Yate is displayed here and housed in a glass. This is the yacht that transported Castro and other revolutionaries to the shores of
Cuba to the start the revolution against Batista.

HOTEL NACIONAL de CUBA. A historic hotel in Havana located near the Malecon up on a hill
with gorgeous views of the water. The hotel is known for its prominent guests that included Mickey Mantle, Walt Disney, Mohammad Ali, John Wayne, Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole, Tarzan's Johnny
Weissmuller, Robert Redford, dignitaries like US President Jimmy Carter, Vladimir Putin, Fidel Castro, Windsor Royals, Steven Spielberg, Johnny Depp, Vin Diesel and Paris Hilton among others. The hotel was also a favorite hang out among famous mobsters such as the likes of Al Capone. In the hotel's grounds an old bunker can be found with displays of canons and posters about the Missile Crisis of 1962 which almost caused World War III. In the movie "13 days" starring Kevin Costner, the said crisis was being told.

ACCOMMODATIONS Or "Habitaciones", commonly used are people's homes that have been converted into "hostels" where you can rent rooms, most have ensuite bathrooms. Some houses built
"casitas" or guest houses in their backyards. Accommodations usually include breakfast or dinner or
both. Others would cook for additional cost. Cost vary from 20CUC and up. Some habitaciones are
available for both locals and non locals with signs outside the door written in blue while those only
for locals are in red. Hotels are available in Havana but are usually booked months in advance and are expensive, ranging from 150CUC and up even all the way to 1800 if staying at Hotel Nacional de Cuba.

AROUND CUBA

We participated in a multisport tour which included activities like hiking, ziplining, scuba diving, snorkeling and horseback riding. We drove to LAS TERRAZAS NATIONAL PARK for some ziplining and swimming in the river. Lunch was at a restaurant that overlooks the river. In the park an
art gallery can be found as well as the house of a famous Cuban singer. VINALES is famous for horseback riding that took us to a cave. Swimming is also allowed inside the cave if you're adventurous enough to go swimming in the dark. The roundtrip ride took at least 4 hours with a stop for lunch at a family owned farm and coffee plantation. We had a short coffee plantation tour where the owner also explained to us the process of growing coffee. Coffee as well as honey can be
purchased in the property. In Vinales we took a sunset hike as well as a visit to La Ermita Hotel, located on top of a hill which is also a perfect place to watch the sunset. The Main Street is lined with
shops and restaurants and there are plenty of habitaciones throughout the entire town ranging from private homes to casitas. A 6 hour roadtrip took us to CINFUEGOS with a stop at CAVE OF THE FISH and BAY OF PIGS for some swimming. Sunset at the Cinfuegos Malecon is a sight to behold. Restaurant BAHIA which is recommended by TripAdvisor was our place of choice for dinner. More
urban than Vinales, there is a shopping center at the main part of the city. A park dedicated to Jose Marti fronts a beautiful Cathedral. A museum that's undergoing renovation can be explored with a
small fee. A tower offers gorgeous views of the city and the ocean. On our way to TRINIDAD we
stopped by GUAJIMICO VILLA RESORT for some scuba diving and snorkeling. Lunch consisted of
grilled squid (my choice) which was very fresh and well flavored.

TRINIDAD is famous among tourists. Every person who's been to Cuba had suggested that I should go to Trinidad. In the main square there are lots of shops and restaurants the favorite among tourists is a set of steps (reminds me of Rome's Spanish Steps) where live music can be enjoyed. It's also a perfect spot for people watching or just hanging out while sipping daiquiris, mojitos or pinacoladas. For a small fee, you can go up the tower in a Church for sunset watching as well a enjoy views of the Square and the ocean. A club called "Pirates' Cave" which is literally inside a cave is a good stop among those who enjoy clubbing and nightlife. On our way back to Havana, we stopped at PARQUE NATURAL EL CUBANO. A 2 mile hike including a hanging bridge crossing took us to a waterfall where we can go swimming. Entrance to the park is 10CUC per person. A lunch stop at Restorante Papito la Campana was perfect for a roadtrip back to Havana. The restaurant was also a goat farm and we were able to witness the process of catching a goat and getting its meat ready for consumption. A scene that wasn't very pleasant for some including myself.